OK, so I’ve about used up about all my China cliches. Part of our tour during the day was a boat ride on West Lake. With that, we have gone by plane, bus, train, rickshaw, and subway during our time in the Middle Kingdom. Where’s the horses?
Another interesting little transportation tidbit about Hanzhou. I recently saw an article that the city has the largest bike loan program in the world. That’s where a system of bikes are maintained throughout the city and anyone can use them for a short time for free or longer period for a small fee. I don’t remember the number, and our tour guides (both from Hangzhou) didn’t know, but it’s several thouseand, I believe. We saw lots of useage, but didn’t have time to try them out ourselves. Hungzhou is also a Sister City with Missoula.
Our first visit, after a nice breakfast at the hotel, that included everything from Western to Chinese to Japanese food (and lots of fruit), was to a tea plantation. This has been in the family for four generations. Again, the land is owned by the government and product is sold to them. I may not have understand the translation that well, but I believe their are over 500 people working this plantation.
As you’ve come to expect, there is a lot to the tea business. There are three kinds of tea – green (unfermented), black (fermented), and oolong (mixture). Hangzhou is known as the best green tea in the world. They cede the black tea title to Sri Lanka. Of the green, the first picking in the Spring (three a year, March to October) is known as the Emperor’s tea, picked exclusively for him, since it is the best (and only picked for two weeks). As only virgins were allowed to pick it, it’s sometimes known as Virgin tea.
Tea bushes have a fairly long life, bearing at three years for the next 30, then after a five-year rest, can produce another 20 years. Some live as long as 100 years. That gives rise to the birthday wish, “May you live as long as a tea bush!”
There’s a whole romance to tea, similar to wine. In fact, at our tasting, we were taught to swirl the glass, just like wine. They claim different years produce different “vintages”, and different parts of the plantation produce different quality tea, from the bottom lands to the steep hillsides. This plantation was all organic, altho the creek flowing through it certainly looked pretty trashy. There’s a whole lot more I could go through, since as a tea drinker myself, I’m pretty interested in it.
However, more to see, so on to the Linyin Temple. It’s a 1,600-year-old working Buddhist temple. Since this is a Saturday and one of the nicer days this Spring, there are lots of families out. Buddhism is huge in China. It’s been too long since my religious studies classes, so I’d forgotten a lot. Our guide explained the six harmonies: body; mind; speech; wealth; opinion; and abstinence from temptation. Buudhas everywhere – carved in the rocks, in the wood, and in the temples. This temple included a 26-foot Buddha made of camphor wood. Sorry, no pictures inside the temple.
After a lunch at a local restaurant, with a number of other tour groups around us, it was off to our slow boat. West Lake is a huge attraction in the area. It was originally part of the ocean, then with landfill, a lagoon, and now a freshwater lake. Again, tons of people out, enjoying the weather. We were treated to an outdoor concert, then we all piled into a small dingy for a half-hour jaunt around the lake. A special sight was a Buddhist pagoda on one shore and a series of structures in the water that are featured on Chinese money.
Our guides warned us to “rest” before the journey, as there are no facilities on the bus and one rest stop is of unknown scheduing, due to traffic. And it was heavy – probably the most we’ve experienced so far. We sat for 5-10 minutes at a time sometimes, but finally made it to the freeway. Plus, these bus coaches are not quite as plush as our first set, so we feel a little more of the road. After our late night business conference, early morning start, and tours throughout the day, the four-hour trip from Hangzhou to Shanghai seemed to take forever.
The Chinese are taking care of that. They’re building a maglev (magnetic levitation) line between the two cities, slated to be completed in a few years. The towers (up to 50′ overhead?) were in place and the line was being placed. We all noted that such a project would probably take decades in the U.S. It helps a lot for the government to already own the land and not have to go through permitting! Even with that, they just couldn’t get it done in time for us.
Traffic really picked up in Shanghai, again. As the second-largest city (18 million), it’s five times the area of Los Angeles. You’ve never seen freeways and ramps like there – sometimes I swear we were a hundred feet in the air. But the trip was all worth it. Coming in to Shanghai reminded me of coming into Vegas. They could call this the City of Lights – it’s so lit up. In fact, after we stopped for dinner (interestingly above an embroidery art gallery, with most pieces from Suzhou), we hopped back aboard the bus and went down to the Bund. That’s the waterfront park with old Shanghai (it’s actually only a couple-hundred-year-old city) on one side and the new (Wall Street of the East) on the other. And the light display, including the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, was awesome.
Finally, after all that, to the Renaissance Shanghai Zhongshan Park Hotel. But our work wasn’t done. After we unloaded our luggage, we had to elevator it up to the 25th floor to check in at the hotel lobby! All the lower floors are retail and office space. Then we catch another elevator to our rooms on the 39th floor. We’re still not to the top, since it goes up to 65 floors, I think. Nice rooms – similar to a couple others, in that the bathroom is glassed in. They have mini-blinds to close for privacy. Maybe it’s supposed to make the rooms look bigger.